Continuation of the BMX Parts page. Yes, more Old and Mid School BMX goodies by Johnson Precision Products ( JP BMX ), Crupi, Dia-Compe, Suzue and Takagi plus more! Do you need info and/or pictures of a certain part? If so post up a request on my Facebook page and I will check to see if I have anything in the archives I can share. Thanks, ride-on!
JP Precision Products mid school BMX gooseneck. Made in the mid 1990’s this is a “Pro” size JP stem in factory Polished aluminum finish. It has a heat treated 1″ quill designed for most 21mm BMX forks such as SE Racing Landing Gear. This stem is new old stock ( NOS ) with original hardware and has been sold on Ebay. Very heavy duty stem beautifully crafted. JP BMX doesn’t make parts anymore unfortunately, the last BMX items that they made were in the late 90’s or possibly early 2000’s. Profile Racing makes a super nice Retro quill stem, although they are not always in stock. You can check inventory to see if it’s available.
Von Giese Precision Components made some awesome parts and here is a Mini BMX Stem with Zero Offset. This Vg gooseneck is from the mid 90’s which makes it a first generation VG Part. Not many of these around, way cool part that is super light weight. It’s all aluminum with steel allen bolts. Perfect for the smaller rider with a micro mini, mini, or possibly junior. It does have a weight limit of 90 pounds so wouldn’t work too well for many Expert racers. This stem was anodized green at one point in time but was in very rough condition. Decided it would be better to polish out all the ugliness than to leave this gooseneck a mess. Super clean now!
Crupi BMX Stem for Mini or Junior race bikes, 1″ threadless. This stem has a weight limit of aprox 90 pounds. They made a couple different versions of this stem including this Mini/Jr, an Expert, and then a Pro. The Expert was almost identical to this one with the exception being 2 pinch bolts for the fork, and was also available in 1 1/8″ threadless. The Pro was 2 pinch bolts as well, 1 1/8″ and overall more beefy construction along with some anodized colors such as Blue and Black. This gooseneck was made in the mid 90’s or so and was top of the line. CNC’d out of solid billet aluminum this mid school BMX stem was light and strong and had a very innovative design. Slightly reminds me of a GT Piston stem, it’s the same basic shape but with way more details than the GT. Crupi did away with the cut out Red paint logo in the late 90’s and went to a lazer etched logo. Race proven parts that are super high quality.
Redline 155mm BMX Cranks made by CPI bicycle parts. This length crankset would be optimal for riders with an 18-20 inseam length. These are JIS Square Taper aluminum cranks arms. New Old Stock ( NOS ) from the mid to late 90’s or so. They use a standard 110mm Bolt Circle Diameter ( BCD ) and fit most mid school BMX chainrings such as Profile Racing.
GT Power Series One Piece Crank. Crank arm length is 175mm and 24 thread Bottom Bracket required. This is an old school BMX crankset off a 1988 GT PFT. They only made the power series stamped 1 piece crank for the last few years of the 80’s and possibly early 90’s. This appears to be the first generation of this crank with later generations having painted logo arms and not stamped. Takes a standard 1/2 pedal like Shimano DX.
Ambrosio Durex BMX Rims 36 hole 20″ hoops, old school BMX parts. These rims were made in Italy in the early to mid 1980’s. I want to say 1983 or 84 for the Hard Anodized version with grooved sidewall rim like I have here. These are singlewall aluminum with pinned seam, not welded. Weight on my digital scale is 362 grams for the red sticker rim, and slightly more at 384 grams for the white big logo Ambrosio rim. Rough measurements are 1/2″ height and 1 1/4″ width. I have seen this type rim laced to Campy BMX Hubs and it was awesome. I’m not sure which sticker version came first. Seems as if Ambrosio is still at it making road bike rims as of 2019
New Old Stock ( NOS ) Tioga Bottom Bracket Beartrap CK-170BT. These are old school BMX parts made in Japan. Hard to say exactly when but would guess mid 80’s to early 90’s. This kit was needed to fit square taper crankarms to an American Bottom Bracket. Shimano, YST, Bullseye and Crupi were amongst some of the other companies that made a similar vintage BMX conversion kit in this era. Unfortunately Tioga doesn’t make this kit anymore. The same type kit is still available but not in the same Japanese quality as the Tioga. They are made in China for the most part and can be found as “Converts 1 piece crank to 3 piece crank“.
Johnson Precision BMX Pedals. These JP Mini Square Bicycle Pedals were made in fairly limited numbers in the early to mid 1990’s. They used a brass bushing instead of a sealed cartridge bearing. My guess would be that it was a weight savings reason and/or possibly because of the low height of the pedal body. Might not have been able to get a bearing in that small space. These pedals used the same spindle as the pro version pedals that take an R6 Bearing. I borrowed the titanium spindles off this mini square pedals set and currently have them installed on my JP Pro Square pedals. Rad little pedals made for race day!
Johnson 44 tooth Sprocket made by GT Bicycles, anodized silver. This type chainwheel came on some 2001 GT Dirt Jumpers and Flat Land BMX Bikes such as the Dave Voelker Metal Issue, GT Thumper, GT Bump, and GT Fly. The Bump and Metal Issue had the anodized Black version of this sprocket, as well as the 2003 Bestwick Pro and 03 GT Karkass. The Johnson line of parts boasted heavy duty over built aluminum parts included sprockets and 1 1/8″ Threadless stems. Johnson BMX Parts were a short lived product line by GT that only lasted a few years in the early 2000’s. There were other companies that made super heavy mid school BMX parts as well, but seems as if the average consumer didn’t want this heavy of a product.
1987 Dia-compe AD990 U-Brake stamped “87”. The original black finish is very nice for being 30+ years old. Would fit in nicely with a 1987 Haro Group One RS-1 or any old school BMX race bike for that matter. These brakes have incredible stopping power when set up correctly with the proper rim/brake pad combo. The original brake pads were Dia-compe, but have been replaced with very capable Kool Stop Eagle Claw brake pads. They now call this brake pad Thinline. Many vintage Freestyle Bikes made by brands such as Hutch, Dyno, Skyway, General and GT used this same type brake which was commonly found in White and Silver.
FSA Afterburner BMX Crankset in 180mm arm length. This set is new old stock ( NOS ) from the mid to late 1990’s. The first version of this crank had lots of CNC cut outs on the face/rear/sides of each arm. This second version set uses the same American Bottom Bracket but has no cut outs on the arms. Full Speed Ahead ( FSA ) and CPI made several versions of this crankset for lots of mid school BMX brands including Powerlite, GT and Robinson. They came in 165mm, 170mm, 175mm and 180mm lengths. The 165mm length was branded for the 1998 GT Show Flatland BMX bike. Very stiff cranks that run a 6 spline aluminum spindle that’s 24mm diameter. Some sets had a full sealed cartridge bearing, while other sets had a looseball bearing system.
Up next is a real deal original 1982 Dia-compe MX 1000 Front Brake Caliper in anodized Gold. It’s all original with the Weinmann Semi-Auto Cable Adjuster Knob and Diacompe Salmon colored brake pads. The front side of this caliper is very sun faded and the rear only slightly faded. The arm is stamped 1182 which translates to November 1982 production date. It’s made in Japan unlike the current Dia-Compe brakes being manufactured. The current design is reported to work great, every bit as good as the old school BMX parts made in Japan.
Suzue BMX hub in 36 hole. This mid school BMX part is new old stock ( NOS ) and missing the axle washers. This hub has sealed cartridge bearings which are behind the main rubber seals on both sides. So technically they are double sealed bearings which makes it very unique in that aspect. This is a standard hub that will accept a 16 tooth or larger freewheel, not a flip-flop hub design. The Suzue date code is most likely hidden behind the sealed bearing sticker. That said I would guess this hub to be early to mid 1990’s era. It’s an aluminum hub shell that had been chrome plated with solid steel 3/8″ axle. Super rad 110mm BMX hub.
Takagi Ultra Dyno cranks 170mm length, and 130mm BCD ( Bolt Circle Diameter ). JIS Square taper 3 piece crank arms that were found on road bikes, beach cruisers and BMX bikes. They were factory anodized blue as I recall. The previous owner didn’t treat these parts very well, lots of hammer marks some missing threads and rounded tapers on the non drive arm. Since they were ion bad cosmetic condition I decided to strip the anodize and machine polish the arms. Came out decent but there are still lots of battle scars that can be seen. The drive side is stamped FE and non drive is FD. I’m almost postive that Takagi used the Shimano date code, and if that’s the case then FE is May 1981 and FD is April 1981. Seems like 1981 would be era correct as these are fairly old crank arms. Most old school BMX cranks like this would have some where in the ballpark of a 125mm length spindle as stock equipment. Some frames required slightly longer or shorter spindles.
Tioga Surefoot II Pedals MP-120 anodized Gold
These Tioga BMX Pedals date back to the early to mid 1980’s and were made in Japan. Unfortunately I do not have the original box. This set of pedals have been used for display bikes over the years but have never been ridden. These are the same era and quality as the iconic KKT Lightning Old School BMX pedals. They feature heat treated Chromoly spindles in 9/16″ thread which fit most 3-piece BMX Cranks. The bearings are looseball type and have plastic seals to keep out contaminants. They are not sealed cartridge bearing but are still rather smooth. MKS had a similar design back in the 80’s which has been reproduced. Very cool old school pedals from the hey-day of BMX!
Do you need to know “how much is my bmx bike worth?” If so there are few ways to try finding out. You could ask on a vintage bike web forum but that may or may not be an issue. Most forums I have come across don’t like members asking the value of an item. The best way I have found would be to just check Ebay and click on the “sold items”. There are a few websites that try to value a bike, but they fail miserably when it comes to the actual value of a collectable item. They basically give you a percentage of the retail value, which doesn’t even work out for a non-collectible. Remember those $800 VCR’s back about 40 years ago? Well, they are worth about $5 now. Same applies to most $2000 MTB bikes 25 years ago, lots of them are not even worth 20% of their original value even in mint condition. The componentry of a 25 year old mountain bike is almost obsolete, and isn’t worth much dollar wise unless it’s a collectable bike. So it’s really difficult to throw out a value of a bike unless all factors are considered. Ebay is the best tool out there for the job in my opinion. It gives the “today value” of your bike better than any other website I have found. Now here is where it gets tricky. Some of these old bikes have lots of custom parts on them which could be highly collectable and worth a boat load of cash. So make sure to take inventory of the parts on the bike before assessing, good luck!